Many of us have experience a "no start" condition. Often this is a fuel delivery problem after filter change, component change or just a situation where the fuel delivery is air lock the the lift pump just isn't doing it's job well enough.
So currently, this is where I am at with the no start issue. seems as though my fuel is draining back to the tank and I am trying to start a dry fuel delivery. This was found after I tried to start again and no go. I loosened a fitting after the final filter and bumped the starter. the lift pump was screaming loud as no fuel there and then the fuel was pulled in and then squirted out of the fitting. Now I am cleaning all the various fitting for the fuel pressure gauge and putting on a different thread sealer. I also will be installing a back flow check valve from grainger and possibly installing a discharge ball valve on the output of the filter to allow the lift pump to empty into a container for bleeding the system. that would clear any future air lock and save all the aggravation of pressurizing the tank etc.
Some of the cure is to pressurize the fuel tank (not so easy a task), get to the final filter and crack a fitting (difficult to get to), loosen an injector or two to bleed the system. Well none of that is easy and after you have to this a few time you begin to wonder if well isn't there an easier way.
recently, in previous post, you may have seen my replacement of the lift pump when my pressure dropped. that was good but after 1200 mile trip the engine would not start after sitting in the drive overnight. I check everything and it all pointed to the replacement of the vp44. After a thorough investigation I determined that there was a leaking fitting somewhere as I heard the lift pump cavitating.
My plan was to remove all the recent fittings and change the tread sealant then tighten them but also I was wondering what to do to prevent the backflow in the first place and provide an easy way to flush the system of air and prove the pump was doing well in delivery. I know that I should see about a few quarts per 30 second cycle with no air entrainment.
Here is what I did. added the back flow check valve and a remote ball valve to purge the fuel delivery just before the vp44.
LIST OF PARTS FOR DRAIN HOSE AND PRESSURE SENSOR
1/8 FNPT THREE WAY CONNECTOR
1/8 NPT CLOSE NIPPLE (GET 2) LOWES
1/8 NPT RESTRICTOR (GLOWSHIFT)
1/8 NPT PRESSURE SENSOR (GLOWSHIFT)
1/4 FUEL LINE 2 AUTOZONE
1/8 NPT TO 1/4 BARB CONNECTOR (PH 125HBL-4-2) GET 2
1/4 BALL VALVE (HOME DEPOT)
1/4 NPT TO 1/4 BARB CONNECTOR (HD)
LOCKTITE 565 THREAD SEALANT AUTOZONE
THE PURPOSE OF THE HOSE AND VALVE IS TO HELP CLEAN OUT ANY AIR IN THE LINE
AFTER FILTER CHANGES OR IF YOU HAVE LOST YOUR PRIME TO THE INJECTOR PUMP.
MAKE ACCESS TO THE LAST FITTING BEFORE THE INJECTOR PUMP AVAILABLE AT
GROUND LEVEL. JUST BUMP THE STARTER FEW TIME AND RUN A FEW QUARTS EACH TIME
INTO AN SPARE EMPTY GALLON CONTAINER.. MANY FOLKS HAVE HAD THIS PROBLEM AND
WERE TOLD TO PRESSURIZE THE TANK OR OPEN AN INJECTOR ALL A LOT OF WORK.
THIS IS CLEAN SIMPLE AND IT WORKS EVERY TIME
BACKFLOW CHECK VALVE APOLLO 3/8 BRONZE CHECK VALVE 61-102-01
AVAILABLE VIA GRANGER 1CKT6
3/8 NPT TO 1/2 HOSE BARB 2 EACH (HOME DEPOT OR GRANGER)
INSTALL THE CHECK VALVE JUST BEFORE THE CARTER LIFT PUMP.
Now you will keep your fuel in the lift pump, You will know what your fuel pressure is And if you add the rest of the gauge you will know your boost and EGT. All these Sensors can be connected into a junction box near the engine and run a single Multi pair wire to the front and splice into the connectors.
Now this may not work on your MH or engine but it is sure good for mine.
So currently, this is where I am at with the no start issue. seems as though my fuel is draining back to the tank and I am trying to start a dry fuel delivery. This was found after I tried to start again and no go. I loosened a fitting after the final filter and bumped the starter. the lift pump was screaming loud as no fuel there and then the fuel was pulled in and then squirted out of the fitting. Now I am cleaning all the various fitting for the fuel pressure gauge and putting on a different thread sealer. I also will be installing a back flow check valve from grainger and possibly installing a discharge ball valve on the output of the filter to allow the lift pump to empty into a container for bleeding the system. that would clear any future air lock and save all the aggravation of pressurizing the tank etc.
Some of the cure is to pressurize the fuel tank (not so easy a task), get to the final filter and crack a fitting (difficult to get to), loosen an injector or two to bleed the system. Well none of that is easy and after you have to this a few time you begin to wonder if well isn't there an easier way.
recently, in previous post, you may have seen my replacement of the lift pump when my pressure dropped. that was good but after 1200 mile trip the engine would not start after sitting in the drive overnight. I check everything and it all pointed to the replacement of the vp44. After a thorough investigation I determined that there was a leaking fitting somewhere as I heard the lift pump cavitating.
My plan was to remove all the recent fittings and change the tread sealant then tighten them but also I was wondering what to do to prevent the backflow in the first place and provide an easy way to flush the system of air and prove the pump was doing well in delivery. I know that I should see about a few quarts per 30 second cycle with no air entrainment.
Here is what I did. added the back flow check valve and a remote ball valve to purge the fuel delivery just before the vp44.
LIST OF PARTS FOR DRAIN HOSE AND PRESSURE SENSOR
1/8 FNPT THREE WAY CONNECTOR
1/8 NPT CLOSE NIPPLE (GET 2) LOWES
1/8 NPT RESTRICTOR (GLOWSHIFT)
1/8 NPT PRESSURE SENSOR (GLOWSHIFT)
1/4 FUEL LINE 2 AUTOZONE
1/8 NPT TO 1/4 BARB CONNECTOR (PH 125HBL-4-2) GET 2
1/4 BALL VALVE (HOME DEPOT)
1/4 NPT TO 1/4 BARB CONNECTOR (HD)
LOCKTITE 565 THREAD SEALANT AUTOZONE
THE PURPOSE OF THE HOSE AND VALVE IS TO HELP CLEAN OUT ANY AIR IN THE LINE
AFTER FILTER CHANGES OR IF YOU HAVE LOST YOUR PRIME TO THE INJECTOR PUMP.
MAKE ACCESS TO THE LAST FITTING BEFORE THE INJECTOR PUMP AVAILABLE AT
GROUND LEVEL. JUST BUMP THE STARTER FEW TIME AND RUN A FEW QUARTS EACH TIME
INTO AN SPARE EMPTY GALLON CONTAINER.. MANY FOLKS HAVE HAD THIS PROBLEM AND
WERE TOLD TO PRESSURIZE THE TANK OR OPEN AN INJECTOR ALL A LOT OF WORK.
THIS IS CLEAN SIMPLE AND IT WORKS EVERY TIME
BACKFLOW CHECK VALVE APOLLO 3/8 BRONZE CHECK VALVE 61-102-01
AVAILABLE VIA GRANGER 1CKT6
3/8 NPT TO 1/2 HOSE BARB 2 EACH (HOME DEPOT OR GRANGER)
INSTALL THE CHECK VALVE JUST BEFORE THE CARTER LIFT PUMP.
Now you will keep your fuel in the lift pump, You will know what your fuel pressure is And if you add the rest of the gauge you will know your boost and EGT. All these Sensors can be connected into a junction box near the engine and run a single Multi pair wire to the front and splice into the connectors.
Now this may not work on your MH or engine but it is sure good for mine.